The Columbia’s Shining Reach: A Short Lesson in History, Fellowship, and Fishing

It has been nearly three years since I learned about the storied waters of the “American Reach” stretch of the Columbia River.  It was during a long drive back home from a frigid, but rewarding, trip to the Grand Ronde when I listened to Ask About Fly Fishing host D Roger Maves’ interview with an eclectic, versed, scholarly guide, and river keeper by the name of Steven Bird.

What is the American Reach?

During this interview, Bird described a wild trout fishery that was daunting yet extremely rewarding.  He spoke of fish steeped in lore, most of it true. He went on to explain how these fish are a tough and wily opponent both in their pursuit as well as in their fighting ability.  That they exhibit strength pound for pound similar to the massive B-run steelhead of Idaho’s Clearwater, only with more tricks and cunning.  He also mentioned they are aware of their home water and take advantage of the familiarity.  And, he told of how each one possessed the distilled heart of a fighter.

By the way, not to trouble you with the diverse history, treaty law, the and outcome of the hydro project we know as Grand Coulee Dam, but the wild rainbow fishery which remains still produces a special type of fish with roots directly from the strain of Red Band fish formerly known as the great steelhead of the Columbia.

Bird continued to explain the tale of how this fish came to be and the tireless lengths he has gone to understand them. He talked with passion for how these fish need more protection, acknowledgment, and understanding.  By the end of the interview, I couldn’t help but yearn for more. I quickly sought out his book Upper Columbia Flyfisher and began to carefully study every character he scribed and color plate that was printed.

 

In the end, Steve became one of my hero’s in fly fishing.  With each new post to his blog The Soft Hackle Journal, I became more engrossed in the study of the man and the river but was never able to take the long track north and engage with this legend and his water.

My good friend, and fellow spey casting geek, Tom McCoy traded literature the same winter I read Steve’s book and he too became engrossed in the subject.  The following year Tom was lucky enough to get some ecology consulting work in Northport and was able to meet and befriend Steve.  During the time Tom spent with Steve, Tom informed me that Steve was even more spectacular in person.  The flies they exchanged and the history they shared painted a picture of a true artist, historian, and conservationist; a model individual for a cherished simple lifestyle unclouded by modern day nuisances and material pursuits.

When Tom returned home and shared the stories of his time with Steve, I was both jealous and inspired, but above all, I was hooked.  I had to experience the force and effect of the Columbia’s Shining Reach for myself.

What's it like to Experience the Shining Reach?

Tom and I set to making plans to venture that way. However, each time we made plans, it seemed that time and time again every opportunity to go would slip away. Finally, Tom said to me, “are you going to do this or just talk about it? There is one weekend of good weather left and then after that, you can close the door on yet another season.”  His words stopped me dead I decided to put life on hold and just like that we headed out.

With only the light of the truck and our headlamps on, we loaded the truck with unspeakable dollars of graphite reels and lines. It’s not that we needed all of that for the trip, but once you find yourself engrossed in a venerable Spey rod collection, you just have to see how far you can push it.  With an Aeropress and a thermos of hot water, we made our way north hoping to catch Steve before his own company arrived.

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A few hours later we arrived at Steve’s door where he eagerly greeted Tom and graciously met me.  He was an outstanding host for the hour or, so we conversed.  Hoping to steal a few quick hours on the river with him before his friends from Rainy’s Flies arrived was all in vain.  He said he would love to hit the river with us, but he needed to get some things ready before he and his guests ventured to the Canadian side the following day.  Instead, he imparted us with a couple of his select ties, and some local wisdom, and wished us well.  Then, after a quick, but superb, lunch at the Rivertown Pub we were off to the banks of the mighty Columbia.

Standing on the shore of the Columbia, at that point, I realized what an impressive river it is. The Shining Reach is no exception, and, in fact, the Reach epitomizes this wild and wondrous river.  The banks of boulders are hewn like pebbles and make wading treacherous in a six-knot current that rips at mid-stream. However, with a cautious approach and a trained eye, her subtleties reveal water that is craving a swung fly.

So, Tom and I uncorked 14-foot rods and Beulah AeroHead lines adorned with a couple of mystic creations of the soft-hackled sort and gradually worked out to a comfortable casting distance and began stepping through the run.  With the sun waning off in the distance and accentuating the hues of autumn leaves, we were each gifted with a couple of the brutes, who were as equally surprised to meet us as we were them.

 

I would like to thank Tom and Steve for their fondness of this powerful watershed and the gifts she beholds.  If you ever have the opportunity to share the American Reach with Steven Bird, know that it’s worth whatever you have to beg, borrow, or steal to get there.

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