Fly Fishing for Tarpon on Isla Holbox
We spent 4 days fishing from Holbox Fly Fishing Lodge. While the wind was fierce, it was nothing we are not used to coming from Montana.
What we were not used to was casting 8-10 weight rods with 12’ leaders to moving targets or tiny pockets.
The fishing was very challenging, but it was also very good.
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March 2: Journey to Isla Holbox Flies Tied & Preparation
It’s after midnight. My friend Brian is picking me up in less than 4 hours. Tonight, I tied 6 more tarpon flies I really don’t need. I’ve got my gear distilled into one carry-on backpack along with three rod tubes taped together.
If you're looking for flies to take to Isla Holbox, start here.
I sheared my head, shaved, showered and brushed my teeth. I was totally ready to go hours ago. I figured a little bourbon and some reading would settle me down.
Why am I not asleep?
I’m jacked up on travel jitters and Tarpon Dreams.
March 3: First Class Plane Tickets & the Arrival at Holbox
A long day of travel after little sleep is never high on the list of fun, but the day went pretty well. Our band of six from Great Falls was on time, ready, and eager to roll. On the long flight from Minneapolis to Cancun, Brian and I were upgraded to first class.
Delta must have known they were hosting Tarpon Pescadores from Montana. I’m not going to lie. We enjoyed ourselves. By the time we landed, both sides of the plane were laughing at Brian’s stories.
When we arrived in Cancun, Terry from Nebraska and Stacy from Alaska were getting acquainted at the palapa bar right outside the airport. As we made group introductions, our shuttle driver showed up waving a sign with my name on it.
After leaving the chaos of zona aeropuerto behind, we made a stop for beverages. We soon had a cooler full of cold ones. Back on the road, the fun channel cranked up several notches. The drive to Chiquila rolled by quickly with lots of lively conversation.
Our trip across to Holbox on the ferry was smooth. Golf cart taxis were waiting island-side and took us on a bouncy tour across town to our lodge on the beach.
March 4-7: Fly Fishing Itinerary and an Average Day on Holbox
Breakfast
A day at Holbox Fly Fishing Lodge starts with a knock on the door and a tray of fresh coffee at 5:45 am. Breakfast is simple, but good, and includes juice, fresh fruit, quesadilla, scrambled eggs, toast and coffee.
The guides show up just before sunrise and pick anglers up right off the beach.
Running to the fish
Holbox Fly Fishing Lodge is situated on a prime beach site. In calm weather, the run to fish for big tarpon and other fish offshore is only 15-20 min. The baby tarpon are in the upper eastern corner of the lagoon. The channel that forms the island and accesses the lagoon is about a 60 minute run on the Oceanside.
We've got reels for salt from Ross Reels online right here.
When the wind is strong and the waves are big, the boats must run around the western edge of the island and then eastward, all the way across the open lagoon to the reach the fish.
We were faced with high winds that forced us to run the long way around 3 of 4 days. Our runs were over 90 minutes. Unfortunately, that cut away a lot of fishing time.
Fly Fishing for Tarpon
The tarpon love to eat in the mangroves. They will weave their way amongst the roots and set themselves up into the current, gulping fish and shrimp that are washed their way.
We target their ambush zones, often with tight side arm shots to place our flies under the branches.
In ideal conditions, there is enough water to pole the boats back into sheltered channels where the fish can be ambushed as they travel between hunting zones. Due to heavy east winds, the water was being blown out of the lagoon, faster than the tides could replace it.
We were forced to stay out along the mangrove edges most of the time, fighting the wind and hoping for fish to appear where we could reach them.
Outside of the mangroves, schools of tarpon roamed the flats. They required stealth and smooth casts to intercept. It was very much like bone fishing. With strong winds, skinny water, compromised visibility and challenged boat control, it was difficult to approach these fish stealthily.
Many times, they were startled before casts were even made. When found, they were incredibly spooky. It was difficult to lead them without catching the fly in the turtle grass, but if the fly landed too close, it would blow them up.
Despite challenging conditions, everyone on the trip put tarpon to the boat. Additionally, some barracuda, snook, jacks, snapper and even catfish were landed. While not the target species, the other fish provided some variety and fun.
Beach Life on Holbox: The People... and Happy Hour
We’d typically roll back to the beach around 2:30 pm. It was a very different scene from when we left it before sunrise. Isla Holbox is popular with European and mainland Mexican beach lovers.
On a quarter mile trip down the beach, one was likely to hear Italian, French, Spanish and possibly a little Swedish or even Russian.
Happy Hour
After wandering the beach, browsing about town, sheltering in a palapa bar or taking a nap, our group would meet at 4:30 in front of the lodge. Our host Luciano would serve up Margaritas and appetizers while we’d share stories of the day and decide where to go for dinner.
Two anglers got their first tarpon during our trip, so we started a new Tarpon Toast Tradition at the lodge!
The Village
Adjacent to the beach, there are several blocks full of shops, restaurants and lively bars. After sundown, tables come out and the party gets going. Most people travel about on foot, but bikes and golf carts are used for longer treks.
Holbox is a colorful town. Walls are covered with unique murals. Store fronts feature local arts and decorations. Live music rolls out from many blocks and hot spots spring up when the crowd likes what they hear. Dancing and singing in the streets is perfectly acceptable.
We've got all kinds of apparel to get you outfitted to head to Mexico right here.
As a fishing village, fish, lobster and octopus is caught daily and distributed about town. Much of the seafood is cooked the traditional Mayan way over open fires. Caribbean and Italian influences also mingle and the delicious choices are plentiful.
I could just about live on Ceviche and chips, but with selections including lobster pizza, pasta with mussels, fish tacos, whole snapper, fried octopus, sashimi, and seafood variety platters, the dinning pleasure level stayed pegged at 11.
Parting Thoughts: Why Choose Isla Holbox for Fishing?
We chose Isla Holbox for several reasons. The first one was the baby tarpon fishing in the lagoon. We wanted to be sure that regardless of weather, we’d still have a viable, if challenging fishery each day.
As it turned out, we were faced with very difficult fishing conditions, but we persevered. The fish that were caught were all the more special because of the challenges.
The second reason was the island itself. Fishing was the mission, but it’s nice to have a fun destination to explore after guide hours. Isla Holbox has been on my radar for years. It did not disappoint. Walking the streets in flip flops and finding great restaurants, unique gift shops and outside bars was a big part of the trips fun. The unique culture and diversity of Holbox cannot be overstated.
The third reason for Holbox was for ease of travel. From Montana, we were able to get to and from the island in one day. That saved both time and money.
Isla Holbox turned out to be one of the best destinations I have ever fished. The Holbox Fly Fishing Lodge has a great location on a white sand beach sheltered under palms. Combined with our hosts, great food, professional guides and the vibrant multicultural village, this place has hooked us all. If you have any questions, would like to plan a visit or join us on our next hosted trip, please give me a call.
March 8
I could see Holbox from the air shortly after we left Cancun. There was no foam on the water and no clouds over the lagoon. I’m sure it would have been an exceptional day for tarpon fishing. Maybe on the next trip, I’ll book one yesterday and one tomorrow.